Sept. 13 Train to Ilkley. The start of Dales Way

After a "full English breakfast" in a very crowded basement breakfast room, we checked out of our hotel and walked back to the tube. Our train south to Ilkley via Leeds was leaving from Kings Cross Station. We arrived in plenty of time.
 

Kings Cross Station

 Too bad today wasn't as pretty as this one. The sky was dark and mostly overcast.



 

 

Just across the street is the beautiful St. Pancras International train station. It's huge. I took this when I walked down the block to the post office.

 

 

 If you're traveling in the UK, don't ever be so much as two minutes late or the train will be long gone! And don't be slow getting off as Russ was in Carlisle, England a few years ago. Russell helped me get my bags off the train and went back to get his, and almost immediately I was left standing on the platform watching the train (with him still on board) charging away down the track on a non-stop express to Glasgow, Scotland! Talk about a sinking feeling. . . But this is our train to Leeds, and when it left, we were both on it!

 

After a transfer in Leeds, we arrived at Ilkley in the middle of the afternoon. With directions in hand, we set off to find our B&B, "The Rhyddings," which was a stone cottage about a ten-minute walk from the train station.

  

The owner of our B&B, Mrs. Fiona Foster was expecting us, and after we settled in and deposited our luggage, we again set off to explore the village. The little town of Ilkley--on the River Wharfe--is the official starting place of "Dales Way." It dates back to the Neolithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. At one time it was a Celtic village that was conquered by the Romans who then built a fort there. The Viking invaders also had their part in Ilkley's history. There are still remains and stone markings from all those different ages in and around the outskirts of the town. It's a very interesting place.

The beautiful All Saint's Church has a 13th-century south doorway with three Saxon crosses inside. Can you imagine going to church in a place 800 years old?

One of the things I love most about doing a cross-country walk in England is the abundance of wonderful old churches you come upon in so many of the little villages. I could spend all day wandering in the churchyards, reading the ancient tombstones, or sitting on a bench in the shade amid all that remains of people who lived, loved and dreamed so long ago. The quiet, dark interiors are peaceful reminders of those who have worshiped there through the centuries. There will no doubt be many pictures of churches on this walking tour.

We are happy to find ourselves back in the land of English pubs. Practically every little town and village in the country has at least one, and they are always a welcome sight. A place to rest and have a meal if needed, and visit with the locals. This riverside pub/hotel was close to the beginning of our hike.

 

Today, Ilkley is a bustling little town with lots of shops, inns, cafes, and B&Bs. We had a variety of eating places to choose from and ended up at an "authentic" Italian ristorante--the "Piccolino" We had a nice table on the rooftop patio, and it was cool and pleasant. We figured this would probably be our last "fancy" meal for at least ten days! Unfortunately, the only thing that was fancy was the price. The food was just ok.  We ate early and explored a little more of the town before walking back to our B&B. We have a cozy room downstairs and are going to bed early in anticipation of beginning our long walk tomorrow. (As it turned out, this was to be our routine for the entire eleven days.)

Next entry: Sept. 14 Day 1