Sept.14 Day 1

 

Ilkley to Howgill--14 miles  

Our first day of the hike we woke up to dry, but overcast skies. Mrs. Jenkins, our B&B hostess, prepared us a large breakfast, and we also met the other couple staying there. Ann and Andy were also beginning the Dales Way hike. After a short visit, we found that we would both be staying in the same lodge that night. We left a little before they did and said we'd no doubt meet again before the day was through. Mrs. Jenkins wished us well and waved goodbye as we left for the starting point of the hike. It was about a 15-minute walk through town, down the hill, and past the church.
 
A left turn into a large city park beside the River Wharfe took us to the beginning of the hike. We would follow this river for several days as it wound through the countryside. This is the park where Dales Way begins.

The official starting point is a stone bench which reads, "For those who walk the Dales Way." Since we seemed to be the only ones awake this early Sunday morning, we had nobody to take our picture. So we took each other's! 

 

 

 

 

The hike began at the hump-backed Ilkley Bridge built in 1675.  We walked across it just to enjoy the lovely scenery, then came back to the other side and onto the path.

In the first 10 minutes of walking we came to what would be the first of many, many stiles. SInce the majority of the hike is on private land and there are literally hundreds of stone fences between here and Windermere, we probably climbed over or went through several hundred stiles, gates, kissing gates, and ladders. It was the same when we did Hadrian's Wall. My legs would ache every night for the next 10 days!

 

The first section was flat and semi-urban. We followed the track beside houses, gardens, a tennis club and sports center. We would also find ourselves crossing an abundance of rivers and streams on a huge variety of bridges--sometimes four or five a day. Some were fun; others not so much.... 

A short walk through a field soon returned us to the river. 

 

After about three miles we approached the village of Addingham and it's 15th-century parish church--St. Peter's. It has an almost medieval-looking tower. While I explored the lovely churchyard, Russ visited with a gentleman who was making his weekly rounds of 4 four churches, ringing the bells for Sunday morning services. They were LOUD!   

 

I love looking at old churches and churchyards, but Russell finally dragged me away, and we headed on down the trail. It stayed close to the river with open fields alongside.

By now there were more people about--local families walking and an occasional fisherman. At times the way climbed to higher pastures, then descended back down to the river's edge. The weather remained cloudy and overcast, but thankfully no rain.

 

A couple of miles beyond Addingham we came to the Fairfield Friends Meeting House. There is much Quaker history in this area, and the simple, austere, restored church dates to 1689.

 

As we walked on through pastures and valleys it was surprising how few people we saw. Sometimes only a couple of walkers in several miles. But there were plenty of sheep! The flocks of Swaledale are the typical Yorkshire breed, and we will pass through hundreds of them before we finish our walk. 

 

After about six miles we came to the place I'd been looking forward to seeing for months-- Bolton Priory, the ruins of a large monastery in a perfect riverside setting founded in the 12th century. The priory church is still standing and remains an active parish church to this day.  

 

 



There were very few people strolling through the ruins, but a small group had just finished a meeting of some kind, and when they left I was able to take this amazing photo.

 

 Russ eating lunch by the priory church.

The old medieval Gate House converted to a shooting lodge.

 

We spent quite a bit of time in and around the ruins and walked up the hill to Bolton Abbey, which is actually the small community north of the church. We sat outside a refreshment kiosk and enjoyed a Coke. Took advantage of the public restrooms beside the post office and added a mile or so to the total of today's walk.  

After our pleasant rest, we headed back down the hill beside the church to cross the river. There were two choices--a wooden pedestrian foot bridge or the stepping stones known as the "Friars' Steps."   

 After watching several people nearly falling into the water, we opted for the bridge! It seemed a lot further across than it appears, and the steps were more than a stride apart in places.

 

 After crossing the river, Dale's Way started climbing into the woods. This was a great view-- looking back at the priory in the distance.

The trail wound up, up, and up, then around and down through the trees, then back to the valley and the river. The water was calm here, and we soon came to the large, crenellated Barden Aqueduct. It was very impressive. 

  

Then we continued through a variety of pretty pastures, woods, and hills. I loved this little building standing alone in the middle of a pasture.

 

Barden Bridge was our last landmark for today's walk, and Russ and I were both getting tired and ready to stop for the day. 

 We thought we were close to our B&B, however, it was another mile or so before we finally reached our destination, Howgill Lodge. The daily directions from Contours Walking Holidays (that booked our hike) said it was 10 miles from Ilkley to Howgill, but with all the extra side trips and to and from our lodgings, my IPhone app. clocked us at just under 14 miles for the day. It felt like it!

Howgill Lodge is a converted 17th-century stone barn. It is a lovely place with high old beams and wonderful views from our front door.

 

 Soon after we arrived, Ann and Andy, the couple we had met at breakfast, also arrived and checked into the room next to us. Since there was no village nearby, and we sure didn't feel like walking anymore, the four of us shared a taxi to go to dinner. It had to come all the way from Skipton to take us to Appletreewick. But it was worth it for the great meal we enjoyed at the Craven Arms Pub.

 

It was fun visiting together, and the tavern was a lively place full of locals discussing the upcoming Thursday vote on the Scottish Independence referendum. It has been a very hot issue everywhere we've been since we arrived in England. 

 

 By the time we crawled in bed for the night we both felt like we had walked 14 miles....We had, but what a wonderful day

 

 



 Next entry: Sept. 15 Day 2